Showing posts with label poison control. Show all posts
Showing posts with label poison control. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 6, 2016

Pet First Aid - Act, Don't React

What would you do if
...your dog ate the bag of semi-sweet chocolate chips that was left out on the table?
...your cat had a seizure right in front of you?
...your dog fell down the stairs and started limping?
...your cat got into a fight and was bleeding?

I know from personal experience that cats and dogs (and other pets, too) can get into trouble at the drop of a hat and it can be really scary to see them in distress!  So, what can you do to help your pet immediately while getting them ready to go to the veterinarian or emergency hospital?  Just like with humans, there are a couple of steps to take.

1 - Assess the situation.  What has happened to your pet?  Are they bleeding, limping, falling over, vomiting, having trouble breathing, crying?  Once you know the symptoms, you can look to the next step.

2 - Determine what you can do for your pet.  Is there a towel nearby or a first aid kit?  Is there someone else in the house who can help you or can you lift your dog by yourself?  Will your pet be able to walk on its own to the car?  Determine what you can do immediately to give your pet the best chance of making it safely to the veterinarian's office or emergency facility.
3 - Apply first aid if necessary.  This can be the scary part.  We here at the animal hospital know that when your pet is hurt, they are also scared and may not react well to being restrained or cared for.  Animals may bite, thrash around, run, cry, scratch, or refuse to be touched.  Your pet can also pick up on your fear and anxiety, which may make the situation worse.  Calmly and gently, get a hold of your pet and apply first aid, preferably with the help of another person.  Remember to keep away from the pet's mouth and face, and keep your motions slow and calm to prevent alarm.


- IF YOUR PET IS BLEEDING: Apply a towel or bandage to the site and apply direct pressure for at least 3 minutes to stop the bleeding.  Add towels on top of previous layers if they are soaking through, but do not remove them as it may disturb any clot formation.  For heavy bleeding or severe injuries, 
get your animal to a veterinarian immediately. 
- IF YOUR PET IS INJURED: If possible and safe, try to stabilize injuries before moving an injured animal by splinting or bandaging them.  *Keep in mind, however, that a poorly applied bandage or splint can do more harm than good; if in doubt, leave the bandaging/splinting to professionals.  If there is a foreign body in the wound, do not remove it.  If necessary, carefully cut it short without moving it to leave 3-6 inches sticking out before transporting your pet to the veterinarian.  While transporting your injured pet, keep him/her confined to prevent further injury. 
- IF YOUR PET IS BURNED: Apply a muzzle to your pet's snout/face and flush the burn with cool (not cold) water.  Do NOT apply ointments or medications to the burn, as these may agitate the burn further.  Seek immediate veterinary care.  
- IF YOUR PET HAS HEATSTROKE: If you cannot immediately get your pet to a veterinarian, move him/her to a shaded area and out of direct sunlight.  Get a rectal temperature with a non-mercury thermometer if possible to determine your pet's temperature (if it's over 108, seek emergency care immediately).  Place a cool, wet towel around your pet’s neck and head (do not cover your pet’s eyes, nose or mouth).  Remove the towel, wring it out, then re-wet and rewrap it every few minutes.  Use a hose or faucet or bucket to keep cool water running over the animal’s body (especially the abdomen and between the hind legs). Then, use your hands to sweep the water away as it absorbs the body heat.  Transport the pet to a veterinarian as soon as possible. 
- IF YOUR PET IS BITTEN BY A SNAKE: Assume the snake is poisonous and seek veterinary attention immediately.  Try to identify the snake if it can be done without risk; do not attempt to capture or kill the snake.  Do not bring the snake into the veterinarian’s office – a photograph will do.
- IF YOUR PET IS POISONED/INGESTED A TOXIC SUBSTANCE: If you know or suspect your pet has consumed something that may be harmful, call your veterinarian, emergency veterinary clinic or the Animal Poison Control Center (888-426-4435 – available 365 days/year, 24 hours/day; a consultation fee applies) immediately.  If possible, have the following information available: Species, breed, age, sex, weight and number of animals involved; Symptoms, Name/description of the substance that is in question, the amount the animal was exposed to, and how long it’s been since your pet ate it or was exposed to it.  Also have the product container/packaging available for reference.  Collect any material your pet may have vomited or chewed, and place it in a plastic sealable bag to take with you when you bring your animal in for veterinary treatment.  **Do not try to induce vomiting or give any medication to your pet unless directed to do so by Poison Control or your veterinarian.**
IF YOUR PET IS HAVING SEIZURES:  Clear the area of other pets, furniture, and any other objects that may cause injury.  Do not try to restrain your pet or startle him/her out of the seizure.  Time the seizure (they usually last 2-3 minutes, but can be as short as 30 seconds).  After the seizure has stopped, keep your pet warm and quiet and contact your veterinarian.


And there are a few more that are a bit more scary than 
the previous emergency situations.  These require taking quick action 
and remaining calm.  If you do not feel you can apply first aid, go to 
your veterinarian or the emergency center immediately.

- IF YOUR PET IS CHOKING: Choking pets have difficulty breathing, paw excessively at their mouths, make choking sounds when breathing or coughing, and may have blue-tinged lips or tongue.  If your pet can still breathe, keep him/her calm and seek immediate veterinary care.  Look into your pet’s mouth to see if a foreign object is visible.  If you see an object, gently try to remove it with pliers or tweezers, but be careful not to push the object further down the throat.  If it’s not easy to reach, do not try to remove it - get your pet to a veterinarian immediately.  If your pet collapses, place both hands on the side of your pet’s rib cage and apply firm quick pressure, or lay your pet on his/her side and strike the rib cage firmly with the palm of your hand 3-4 times to sharply push air out of their lungs and push the object out from behind. Repeat this until the object is dislodged or until you arrive at the veterinarian’s office.  **However, we highly recommend letting a veterinary professional take this course of action.**
- IF YOUR PET IS NOT BREATHING: Open your pet’s airway by gently grasping its tongue and pulling it forward (out of the mouth) until it is flat.  Check the throat to see if there are any foreign objects blocking the airway.  Perform rescue breathing by holding your pet’s mouth closed with your hands and breathing directly into its nose until you see the chest expand.  Once the chest expands, continue administering one rescue breath every 4-5 seconds.  
- IF YOUR PET HAS NO HEARTBEAT: **Do not begin chest compressions until you’ve secured an airway and started rescue breathing.**  Gently lay your pet on its right side on a firm surface. The heart is located on the left side in the lower half of the chest, just behind the elbow of the front left leg. Place one hand underneath the pet’s chest for support and the other hand over the heart.  
      • For dogs, press down with quick, firm pressure to depress the chest one inch for medium-sized dogs.  Use more force for larger animals and less force for smaller animals.  For cats and other small pets, cradle your hand around the animal’s chest so your thumb is on the left side of the chest and your fingers are on the right side of the chest, and compress the chest by squeezing it between your thumb and fingers. 
      • Press down 80-120 times per minute for larger animals and 100-150 times per minute for smaller ones (less than 25 lbs).  Alternate the chest compressions with the rescue breaths: perform chest compressions for 4-5 seconds and stop long enough to give one rescue breath.
      • Continue until you can hear a heartbeat and your pet is breathing regularly, or you have arrived at the veterinary clinic and they can take over the resuscitation attempts.
      • Please refer to this infographic of pet CPR for visual reference if it's easier for you - Saving Your Pet with CPR


Always remember that any first aid administered to your pet should be followed by immediate veterinary care. First aid care is not a substitute for veterinary care, but it may save your pet's life until it receives veterinary treatment.

I hope you don't have to use these first aid methods any time soon, but it is very good information to know!  As the Boyscouts say, "Be Prepared!"  I know that I am much better off living at the hospital because all my minions know exactly what to do in case of an emergency situation!  I hope that this information will help you be better prepared for applying first aid to your pets in case of an emergency, too. 
  
Til next meow,


MASON


Great Falls Animal Hospital

703-759-2330
POISON CONTROL HELPLINE
PET POISON HELPLINE: (800) 213-5774
ASPCA POISON CONTROL(888) 426-4435

24 EMERGENCY FACILITIES
THE HOPE CENTER- Vienna: (703) 281-5121
THE LIFE CENTRE- Leesburg: (703) 777-9968

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

Spring is Here!

It has been quite a long winter and we are so glad it is finally, finally over...finally...we hope.

And with the Spring comes many things that you should think about for the safety of your pets and wildlife around you!


With Easter upon us, no doubt there have been lilies and daffodils and other springtime flowers adorning your home and yard.  But did you know that some lilies are poisonous to cats and even dogs?

There are benign and dangerous lilies out there, and it’s important to know the difference!  Benign (or non-toxic) lilies include the Peace, Peruvian, and Calla lilies, which contain insoluble oxalate crystals that cause minor signs such as tissue irritation to the mouth, tongue, pharynx, and esophagus.  Clinical signs of drooling, pawing at the mouth, foaming, and vomiting may be seen.

The more dangerous, potentially fatal lilies are true lilies of the Lilium or Hemerocallis species.  Examples of some of these dangerous lilies include the Tiger, Day, Asiatic hybrid, Easter, Japanese Show, Rubrum, Stargazer, Red, Western, and Wood lilies – all of which are highly toxic to cats!  Even small ingestions (such as 2-3 petals or leaves) – even the pollen or water from the vase – can result in severe, acute kidney failure.  Lily of the Valley is also included and though it does not cause kidney failure, it can cause life-threatening heart arrhythmias and death when ingested by dogs or cats.

If your cat is seen consuming any part of a lily, bring your cat (and the plant) immediately to a veterinarian for medical care.  The sooner you bring in your cat, the better and more efficiently the lily poisoning can be treated.  Decontamination (like inducing vomiting and giving binders like activated charcoal) are imperative in the early toxic stage, while aggressive intravenous fluid therapy, kidney function monitoring tests, and supportive care can greatly improve the prognosis.  Intravenous fluids must be started within an 18 hour window for the best outcome.

Common signs to watch for if your cat has eaten lilies:
  • Inappetance
  • Lethargy
  • Hiding
  • Vomiting
  • Diarrhea
  • Halitosis
  • Dehydration
  • Inappropriate urination or thirst
  • Seizures
  • Death

 
As springtime begins so too does “kitten season,” and Alley Cat Allies, the nation’s largest advocacy organization dedicated to cats, offers ways people can help cats and kittens this season.
 
If you come across a kitten outdoors, you may be tempted to bring her home with you, but that may not be the best thing for the kitten,” said Becky Robinson, president and founder of Alley Cat Allies. “Deciding whether to take a kitten home with you or leave her where she is should be carefully considered based on the individual kitten’s situation and age.”

Alley Cat Allies offers the following tips to help kittens this season:
  1. Leave kittens with mom. Like all babies, kittens are best left with their mothers who instinctively know how to help their kittens grow up to be strong and healthy cats.  Neonatal kittens, 4 weeks old or younger, need constant care and still depend on mom for 100 percent of their food.  Kittens 5 to 8 weeks old can begin to eat wet food, but are still being weaned.  If you know the mother is present, it is best to leave kittens with her.  To determine whether the mother is caring for the kittens, wait and observe for two to four hours to see if the mother returns.  The mother could just be out looking for food. If she doesn’t return within a day, the kitten could be abandoned.  A young kitten living outdoors who does not have a mother present should be taken in and fostered.  If the kitten is not weaned, she will require bottle-feeding and round-the-clock care.
  2. Do not bring a just born kitten to an animal shelter.  Most shelter employees are not equipped or trained to provide round-the-clock care for neonatal kittens (up to 4 weeks of age).  If a kitten cannot eat on her own, she will likely be killed at a shelter.  Realistically, it is never a good idea to take a cat to a shelter.  More than 70 percent of cats who enter shelters are euthanized there, and that number rises to virtually 100 percent for feral cats taken to shelters.  


And while we are talking about abducting or displacing cute baby animals, let's also talk about bunnies, squirrels, and birds.  The # 1 rule about wildlife is: DON'T TOUCH IT.  Unless the animal is obviously injured, emaciated, or you know the mother has not been by to take care of the babies, do not pick them up and bring them into your home as a pet.  Wild animals are not meant to be pets! 

Signs that a wild animal needs your help:
  • A cat or dog presents the wild animal to you
  • Evidence of bleeding
  • An apparent or obvious broken limb
  • A featherless or nearly featherless bird on the ground
  • Shivering
  • A dead parent nearby
If you observe the above signs, find help for the animal and safely capture and transport him or her to the appropriate place for treatment.  Once you're sure the animal needs your help, call a wildlife rehabilitator for assistance. If you’re unable to locate a rehabilitator, try contacting one of the following:
  • Local animal shelter or humane society
  • Animal control agency
  • Nature center
  • Veterinarian (including us!)
Once you've contacted someone who can help, describe the animal and his physical condition as accurately as possible.  Unless you are told otherwise, here's how you can make an animal more comfortable for transport or while you're waiting for help to arrive:
  • Never handle an adult animal without first consulting with a wildlife professional. Even small animals can injure you.
  • Put the animal in a safe container. For most songbirds, a paper bag may be used for transport. For larger birds or other animals, use a cardboard box or similar container. First, punch holes for air, from the inside out, and line the box with an old T-shirt or other soft cloth.
  • Put on thick gloves and use a towel or pillowcase to cover the animal as you scoop him up gently and place him in the container.
  • Do not give the animal food or water: it may cause him to choke, develop digestive problems, or drown. Also, many injured animals are in shock, and eating or drinking can make it worse.
  • Place the container in a warm, dark, quiet place—away from pets, children, and noise—until you can transport the animal. Be sure to keep the container away from direct sunlight, air conditioning, or heat.
  • Transport the animal as soon as possible.
  • While transporting the animal, leave the radio off and keep talking to a minimum.

With all that said, I think I'm going to find a nice spot of sun before the winter comes back...again...with snow...(grumble, grumble).

Til next meow,


Mason


Great Falls Animal Hospital

703-759-2330
POISON CONTROL HELPLINE
PET POISON HELPLINE: (800) 213-5774
ASPCA POISON CONTROL: (888) 426-4435

24 EMERGENCY FACILITIES
THE HOPE CENTER- Vienna: (703) 281-5121
THE LIFE CENTRE- Leesburg: (703) 777-9968


http://www.cbsnews.com/news/easter-lilies-toxic-for-cats-fda-warns/

http://www.lifewithcats.tv/2014/04/09/2-5-tips-to-help-kittens-this-spring/

http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/resources/tips/injured_orphaned_wildlife.html#.U07ouJqPLow

Wednesday, September 19, 2012

Halloween Hazards

So how has everyone’s September been so far?  I’m sure a lot of you are getting back into the swing of things, like back to school or back to work; not that I would know, but I can imagine it’s quite the adjustment.  I know how I feel when I have to stay in a big cage because my exam room is unavailable and it’s awful!
Now that it’s September, that means Halloween is around the corner and while that is a great time for humans, it’s not so much for many pets out there.  First I’ll start out with the obvious… 9 out of 10 pets do not want to be dressed up.  I PROMISE.  My staff finds it very amusing to torture me by putting various “hats” on my head and then they go the extra mile and take pictures.  NOT FUNNY, GUYS.  When do you really see happy pets in costumes?  Not very often.   (Though if you are entering a best costume contest that involves lots of kitty or puppy treats as prizes, I’ll dress up in just about anything.)   That being said, costumes can actually be quite frightening.  We are used to seeing you one way and then next thing we know, everyone looks different and very scary!  All we ask is that you please take that into consideration and if you must dress up like a scary freakazoid, please put us in a part of the house where we don’t have to look at you.  Some of us have a wild imagination and have had very real nightmares; food shortage, treat shortage and very menacing ghosts who come out of the wall and take our treats!  Double scary!  We would be much happier in a nice, quiet room (stocked with treats and toys!).  J
Probably the biggest problem with Halloween for pets would be all the candy floating around that we could potentially get into.  We all know that many dogs out there are far from prejudiced about food and snacks and they are typically the ones you see at the vet having to regurgitate all of that hard earned candy.  That doesn’t mean that cats and other pets are off the hook so definitely be careful about where you store any candy or snacks.  Technically, you should always be mindful of where you are putting non-animal friendly items (I hate to say it, but even our food should be where we can’t get it since we do like to help ourselves on occasion.  This, however, does not apply to me…).  You would be surprised what animals can get into and how quickly something can happen.  Make sure you have a number for animal poison control, your veterinarian, and 24-hour emergency facility where it can be easily accessed.  Poison control (both human and animal) does cost money so also make sure to have a credit card handy.  It’s also very important to keep wrappers, packaging, or have a list of the ingredients with you when you call poison control, as well as taking with you to the vet if at all possible.  It is extremely helpful in determining toxicity as well as treatment. 
All that being said, I hope all of you two- and four-legged friends had a great summer and a great start to September!  Having just expelled all of this intelligence has made me very, very hungry so I must find a staff member to rectify this situation.  I keep telling them to just leave my food where I can get it so I don’t have to bother them but they don’t think it’s a good idea!
Meows,
Mason  
Great Falls Animal Hospital
703-759-2330

POISON CONTROL HELPLINE
PET POISON HELPLINE:  (800) 213-5774
ASPCA POISON CONTROL:  (888) 426-4435

24 EMERGENCY FACILITIES
 THE HOPE CENTER- Vienna: (703) 281-5121
THE LIFE CENTRE- Leesburg: (703) 777-9968 
VCA SouthPaws Veterinary Specialists & Emergency Center Fairfax: (703) 752-9100