Pet First Aid - Act, Don't React

What would you do if
...your dog ate the bag of semi-sweet chocolate chips that was left out on the table?
...your cat had a seizure right in front of you?
...your dog fell down the stairs and started limping?
...your cat got into a fight and was bleeding?

I know from personal experience that cats and dogs (and other pets, too) can get into trouble at the drop of a hat and it can be really scary to see them in distress!  So, what can you do to help your pet immediately while getting them ready to go to the veterinarian or emergency hospital?  Just like with humans, there are a couple of steps to take.

1 - Assess the situation.  What has happened to your pet?  Are they bleeding, limping, falling over, vomiting, having trouble breathing, crying?  Once you know the symptoms, you can look to the next step.
2 - Determine what you can do for your pet.  Is there a towel nearby or a first aid kit?  Is there someone else in the house who can help you or can you lift your dog by yourself?  Will your pet be able to walk on its own to the car?  Determine what you can do immediately to give your pet the best chance of making it safely to the veterinarian's office or emergency facility.
3 - Apply first aid if necessary.  This can be the scary part.  We here at the animal hospital know that when your pet is hurt, they are also scared and may not react well to being restrained or cared for.  Animals may bite, thrash around, run, cry, scratch, or refuse to be touched.  Your pet can also pick up on your fear and anxiety, which may make the situation worse.  Calmly and gently, get a hold of your pet and apply first aid, preferably with the help of another person.  Remember to keep away from the pet's mouth and face, and keep your motions slow and calm to prevent alarm.

- IF YOUR PET IS BLEEDING: Apply a towel or bandage to the site and apply direct pressure for at least 3 minutes to stop the bleeding.  Add towels on top of previous layers if they are soaking through, but do not remove them as it may disturb any clot formation.  For heavy bleeding or severe injuries, get your animal to a veterinarian immediately. 
- IF YOUR PET IS INJURED: If possible and safe, try to stabilize injuries before moving an injured animal by splinting or bandaging them.  *Keep in mind, however, that a poorly applied bandage or splint can do more harm than good; if in doubt, leave the bandaging/splinting to professionals.  If there is a foreign body in the wound, do not remove it.  If necessary, carefully cut it short without moving it to leave 3-6 inches sticking out before transporting your pet to the veterinarian.  While transporting your injured pet, keep him/her confined to prevent further injury. 
- IF YOUR PET IS BURNED: Apply a muzzle to your pet's snout/face and flush the burn with cool (not cold) water.  Do NOT apply ointments or medications to the burn, as these may agitate the burn further.  Seek immediate veterinary care.  
- IF YOUR PET HAS HEATSTROKE: If you cannot immediately get your pet to a veterinarian, move him/her to a shaded area and out of direct sunlight.  Get a rectal temperature with a non-mercury thermometer if possible to determine your pet's temperature (if it's over 108, seek emergency care immediately).  Place a cool, wet towel around your pet’s neck and head (do not cover your pet’s eyes, nose or mouth).  Remove the towel, wring it out, then re-wet and rewrap it every few minutes.  Use a hose or faucet or bucket to keep cool water running over the animal’s body (especially the abdomen and between the hind legs). Then, use your hands to sweep the water away as it absorbs the body heat.  Transport the pet to a veterinarian as soon as possible. 
- IF YOUR PET IS BITTEN BY A SNAKE: Assume the snake is poisonous and seek veterinary attention immediately.  Try to identify the snake if it can be done without risk; do not attempt to capture or kill the snake.  Do not bring the snake into the veterinarian’s office – a photograph will do.
- IF YOUR PET IS POISONED/INGESTED A TOXIC SUBSTANCE: If you know or suspect your pet has consumed something that may be harmful, call your veterinarian, emergency veterinary clinic or the Animal Poison Control Center (888-426-4435 – available 365 days/year, 24 hours/day; a consultation fee applies) immediately.  If possible, have the following information available: Species, breed, age, sex, weight and number of animals involved; Symptoms, Name/description of the substance that is in question, the amount the animal was exposed to, and how long it’s been since your pet ate it or was exposed to it.  Also have the product container/packaging available for reference.  Collect any material your pet may have vomited or chewed, and place it in a plastic sealable bag to take with you when you bring your animal in for veterinary treatment.  **Do not try to induce vomiting or give any medication to your pet unless directed to do so by Poison Control or your veterinarian.**
- IF YOUR PET IS HAVING SEIZURES:  Clear the area of other pets, furniture, and any other objects that may cause injury.  Do not try to restrain your pet or startle him/her out of the seizure.  Time the seizure (they usually last 2-3 minutes, but can be as short as 30 seconds).  After the seizure has stopped, keep your pet warm and quiet and contact your veterinarian.

And there are a few more that are a bit more scary than 

the previous emergency situations.  These require taking quick action 

and remaining calm.  If you do not feel you can apply first aid, go to 

your veterinarian or the emergency center immediately.

- IF YOUR PET IS CHOKING: Choking pets have difficulty breathing, paw excessively at their mouths, make choking sounds when breathing or coughing, and may have blue-tinged lips or tongue.  If your pet can still breathe, keep him/her calm and seek immediate veterinary care.  Look into your pet’s mouth to see if a foreign object is visible.  If you see an object, gently try to remove it with pliers or tweezers, but be careful not to push the object further down the throat.  If it’s not easy to reach, do not try to remove it - get your pet to a veterinarian immediately.  If your pet collapses, place both hands on the side of your pet’s rib cage and apply firm quick pressure, or lay your pet on his/her side and strike the rib cage firmly with the palm of your hand 3-4 times to sharply push air out of their lungs and push the object out from behind. Repeat this until the object is dislodged or until you arrive at the veterinarian’s office.  **However, we highly recommend letting a veterinary professional take this course of action.**
- IF YOUR PET IS NOT BREATHING: Open your pet’s airway by gently grasping its tongue and pulling it forward (out of the mouth) until it is flat.  Check the throat to see if there are any foreign objects blocking the airway.  Perform rescue breathing by holding your pet’s mouth closed with your hands and breathing directly into its nose until you see the chest expand.  Once the chest expands, continue administering one rescue breath every 4-5 seconds.  
- IF YOUR PET HAS NO HEARTBEAT: **Do not begin chest compressions until you’ve secured an airway and started rescue breathing.**  Gently lay your pet on its right side on a firm surface. The heart is located on the left side in the lower half of the chest, just behind the elbow of the front left leg. Place one hand underneath the pet’s chest for support and the other hand over the heart.  
      • For dogs, press down with quick, firm pressure to depress the chest one inch for medium-sized dogs.  Use more force for larger animals and less force for smaller animals.  For cats and other small pets, cradle your hand around the animal’s chest so your thumb is on the left side of the chest and your fingers are on the right side of the chest, and compress the chest by squeezing it between your thumb and fingers. 
      • Press down 80-120 times per minute for larger animals and 100-150 times per minute for smaller ones (less than 25 lbs).  Alternate the chest compressions with the rescue breaths: perform chest compressions for 4-5 seconds and stop long enough to give one rescue breath.
      • Continue until you can hear a heartbeat and your pet is breathing regularly, or you have arrived at the veterinary clinic and they can take over the resuscitation attempts.
      • Please refer to this infographic of pet CPR for visual reference if it's easier for you - Saving Your Pet with CPR


Always remember that any first aid administered to your pet should be followed by immediate veterinary care. First aid care is not a substitute for veterinary care, but it may save your pet's life until it receives veterinary treatment.

I hope you don't have to use these first aid methods any time soon, but it is very good information to know!  As the Boyscouts say, "Be Prepared!"  I know that I am much better off living at the hospital because all my minions know exactly what to do in case of an emergency situation!  I hope that this information will help you be better prepared for applying first aid to your pets in case of an emergency, too. 
  
Til next meow,



MASON



Great Falls Animal Hospital

703-759-2330

POISON CONTROL HELPLINE

PET POISON HELPLINE: (800) 213-5774

ASPCA POISON CONTROL: (888) 426-4435

24 EMERGENCY FACILITIES

THE HOPE CENTER- Vienna: (703) 281-5121

THE LIFE CENTRE- Leesburg: (703) 777-9968

VCA SouthPaws Veterinary Specialists & Emergency Center Fairfax: (703) 752-9100 

Winter Woes - Eternal Sunshine of the Busy Mind

Mason, here - It has been a while!  I was trying to hibernate through the fall and winter, but these pesky humans who work at the hospital won't let me sleep; they are continually making noise and looking at other cats and dogs (and let me tell you, I'm not very keen on sharing my space).  So, since it's now the New Year and my beauty sleep is on forced hiatus, I figured I would share more of my knowledge with you!

Let's talk about winter, or more specifically, being shut indoors all winter.  It can be very, VERY boring to stay inside all the time with nothing new to do (which is why I was trying to hibernate).  But there are ways you can keep you indoor-bound companions in tip-top shape and their minds sharp as a tack.  I learned long ago that mental exercise can be satisfying to bored, bounce-off-the-wall pups and cats.  Most breeds of dogs were developed to work (like Corgis, Sheepdogs, German Shepherds, and Terriers to name a few), and many dogs today are not expected to fulfill that inherent trait. Giving dogs a job to do is good for them, and they like it! (much unlike cats such as I, who prefer to sleep a lot and keep to themselves).

There are many tricks that you can teach your dog to help them work for their treats, and it also reinforces discipline and good behavior.  I know someone who taught their dog to balance a biscuit on his nose, then flip it into the air and catch it on command. Now that's a heck of a parlor trick!  He also knows to bark on request, shake hands and even find his plush toys and put them away.  Try starting with a simple game and build on it.  If your dog likes to retrieve, begin with simple in-sight fetching and then slowly make things harder.  Add a "stay."  Then "hide" the toy in an easy-to-find spot, making the game a little trickier as your pet learns you want him to "find," instead of merely "fetch."

Every trick, whether useful or just plain fun, was born on a gloomy winter afternoon.  You can also use search games, where you can hide a toy and ask your dog to find it.  For even more mental stimulation, see if your dog can find the right object by name - Kong, frog, football, and so on.  Such games are to dogs what the daily crossword puzzle or the latest computer game is to us.  Dogs have to think, they have to learn, and when they get it right, their sense of accomplishment and joy is palpable and contagious.  And as fun as these games are, with plenty of praise for a job done right, they also reinforce a dog's place in the pack structure we humans call "family."

If bored and lonely, many animals will develop any number of bad habits. They dig holes in the yard or carpeting, bark or cry endlessly day and night, and become chewers of  furniture, shoes, or pillows.  And sometimes, without the socialization all pets need, they become aggressive and moody, ready to bite or snarl at anyone who comes into their territory.  So it's important to keep up with your pet's personal growth and socialization in winter time!  Just don't let them sit around doing nothing.  You'll all enjoy a bitter winter day better if you find your dogs something useful to do! 

 Now, this isn't just a matter for the dogs in your life - birds need exercise, too!  From the smallest budgie to the largest macaw, parrots are highly intelligent, active birds who need to stay mentally and physically active to stay healthy.  Anything a parrot can dig into, from a toy to a challenging food that requires effort to eat, is good.  One toy in particular is good for burning the calories consumed by a sedentary bird: the coiled-rope perch.  This springy invention requires effort to stay on, and some birds become so enamored of it that they'll spend hours bouncing up and down.  Human interaction is a huge part of animals companions' well being and growth, so take those birds out and let them stretch their wings, meet your visitors, watch some TV with you, or run little obstacle courses in the open!

Another thing to remember with birds is that many of the birds kept as pets are of species most comfortable in places that we would find intolerable: the steamy, hot rain forests of Central and South America.  The dry air of human homes - especially in winter - is thought to be a contributing factor to feather-picking, a frustrating syndrome that can drive birds to pluck themselves bald.  Many birds enjoy being dampened by water from a spray bottle or being offered the chance to take a bath in a shallow dish of clean water.  How often should birds get a bath? There are no firm guidelines, but daily would be fine with many of our feathery friends.

And, of course, when it comes to your feline friends, there's no better way to spend a day indoors than this:

No stimulation is "technically" necessary, though we do like a fun game of "Catch the Laser Dot" or playing with feathered devices and whatnot to keep ourselves looking svelt.

So, remember, while the winter is woeful with all its bitter cold and nasty weather, you can still enjoy the indoors with your pets and give them something fun to do to keep them healthy and social!  After all, your pal Mason here would never steer your wrong...right?

Til next meow,



MASON



Great Falls Animal Hospital

703-759-2330

POISON CONTROL HELPLINE

PET POISON HELPLINE: (800) 213-5774

ASPCA POISON CONTROL: (888) 426-4435

24 EMERGENCY FACILITIES

THE HOPE CENTER- Vienna: (703) 281-5121

THE LIFE CENTRE- Leesburg: (703) 777-9968

VCA SouthPaws Veterinary Specialists & Emergency Center Fairfax: (703) 752-9100 

http://www.veterinarypartner.com/

Why Microchipping Your Pet Works

Hello, blogger fans!  It has been a long and fun summer and everything is now winding down for the fall.  That also means lots of moving, kids going to school and moving for college, and fall changes.  So, today, I would like to talk to you about microchipping.

What is microchipping, you may ask?  Well, a microchip is a tiny electronic device (about the size of a grain of rice) that uses radio waves to transmit stored information when it is read by the right kind of scanner.  Microchips for pets store a unique identification number and do not need a power source, and they have no moving parts, so they do not wear out.  Microchips are made of a material that is compatible with body tissues, so rejection and infection at the site are rare.  After injection, the microchip becomes encased in the tissue at the injection site (usually around the back and shoulders). It may move slightly, but it usually stays at or near the place it was injected.  To read the chip, a compatible scanner must be passed over it.  Different microchip companies use different chips; however, there are scanners that can read all kinds of chips.

To complete the microchipping process, you must register your pet’s microchip with the microchip company.  Unless the microchip company has your information, there is no way for the identification number on the microchip to link you with your lost pet!  This is the number one way to reunite an owner with their pet, and we here at our hospital have many happy stories about reuniting pets and owners due to a microchip and the information attached with the microchip.

So, what happens if your pet becomes lost?  When a lost or injured pet is taken to an emergency room, veterinary office, or shelter, he or she can be scanned for the presence of a microchip.  If the pet has a chip, the scanner reads the pet’s identification number.  If the chip has been properly registered, the shelter or hospital can provide the number to the microchip company, which maintains the owner's contact information.  The microchip company or hospital then contacts the owner, and the pet can be reunited with his or her family!

The use of tattoos as permanent identification for pets has for the most part been made obsolete by microchip technology.  A microchip and an ID tag, however, work best together, and I recommend that every pet have both.  The most important thing to remember about any form of pet ID is to keep your contact information current!  If you move or change your phone number, update your microchip information immediately.  Don’t wait, because a move is a high-risk time when your pet is more likely to slip out and go missing.  And get a new ID tag as well: Many pet-supply stores have machines that make them while you wait, in five minutes or less!  No excuses!

The bottom line, though, is that if your pet is lost, you want to make sure you have done everything you can to make his return home as quick and easy as possible.  You don’t want to have to rely on posters plastered around town or hope a harried shelter worker will have the time and resources to figure out where your pet belongs.  Tags, microchips and other innovative ways of identifying pets all help to produce happy endings for lost pets and their owners.

To sum up, here's why you should use a microchip as an identifier for your pet:

Microchips are a way of permanently identifying your pet.

Microchips must be registered with a microchip company to reunite you with your pet.

Microchipping is a simple, quick procedure that can be performed by your veterinarian.

Many lost pets are never returned to their owners because they do not have any form of identification.

To keep your pet safe in the face of the unknown, try a microchip today!  Coupled with an ID tag or ID collar, your pet will have the best chance possible to be reunited with you.  And I should know - I'm microchipped, too!

Til next meow,


Mason



Great Falls Animal Hospital

703-759-2330

POISON CONTROL HELPLINE

PET POISON HELPLINE: (800) 213-5774

ASPCA POISON CONTROL: (888) 426-4435

24 EMERGENCY FACILITIES

THE HOPE CENTER- Vienna: (703) 281-5121

THE LIFE CENTRE- Leesburg: (703) 777-9968

VCA SouthPaws Veterinary Specialists & Emergency Center Fairfax: (703) 752-9100 

 

http://www.vetstreet.com/microchipping-your-pet
http://www.vetstreet.com/dr-marty-becker/microchips-and-id-tags-work-best-when-pets-have-both?page=2
http://www.vetstreet.com/our-pet-experts/microchips-and-tags-why-your-pets-need-id

http://www.vetstreet.com/our-pet-experts/why-pet-microchips-arent-always-foolproof

Guest Blogger Luna and Introducing New Pets

Hello, everyone!  I am your guest blogger for the month - my name is Luna!  I am a lionhead bunny and a good friend of Mason, who has been vacationing for the entire summer (lucky cat!).  He only just told me about his blog and I was all too happy to volunteer for an entry.

Today, I wanted to talk to you all about something that I recently went through.  I had to move from my old home into a new home that I now share with two brother cats.  At first they were really afraid of me - I think it may have been my keen hair sense - but now they love to play with me and make me feel like I've always a part of the family!

Finding the right pets to complete your household can be a daunting task.  How you introduce the new housemates to each other can make or break the relationship, with those all-important first impressions. The introduction process may need to continue for weeks, or even months, until everyone is comfortable with each other.

 

Day-to-day management of a cat and a dog (or bunny, or hamster, or fish, or bird) represents several challenges.  You’ll want to consider in advance whether you want to live with the household changes that may be required, like all the chasing and squawking and squeaking!  No one can guarantee that particular pets will be safe together unsupervised - I know that some of us pocket pets would get eaten up in an instant if Mom and Dad weren't watching over us!

 

So, how do you introduce your new pet to your current companion?  Start by letting the pets smell and hear each other through a door or crate that blocks the view.  It may take at least one to several days, but definitely keep this up as long as it takes for pet to be relaxed, then try reversing their locations so your new pet can be out and about the house and your current pet is in a different area.

It’s useful to switch them back and forth several times so neither one gets jealous of each other.  If both animals remain calm, the next step would be to put two barriers between the pets, with a distance of several feet or more so both animals will feel comfortable that actual contact can’t happen.  Of course, in the cases of pocket pets, this may never actually happen, as those cats and dogs are sooooo big!!!!  It may be too scary to let them meet face to face, but crated contact is a good idea.  One of the barriers might be a see-through door, window, or crate.  If it’s a baby gate it must be one the cat can’t get over, under or through.

Dogs need to be confined away from the barrier the other pet is behind.  You could use another crate or enclosure, or perhaps have the dog on leash.  Even if both animals are completely calm at this point, that’s enough for the first day, maybe the first several days.  Don’t rush to the next stage.  If either animal is nervous when viewing the other, go back to the setup of hearing and scent without sight.  Be careful to maintain their trust by not allowing accidental contact.

Cats can take a long time to get used to things, commonly months - like I said before, my kitty brothers took forever to get used to me!  Taking things too quickly can set the process back so badly that it’s far better to go slowly.  Dogs are usually much better at meeting new pets, but they can also be quick to think that new pet is a chew toy!

You can read more about the Introduction Process here, thanks to our awesome authors and trainers over at Veterinary Partner! Veterinary Partner - Introducing New Pets

And for more information specifically regarding Dog Behavior and Introductions to new pets, please see this article on Dog Introductions.

Thank you all so much for letting me talk to you this week!  I will let Mason know you all miss him, but he is very busy getting back massages and being combed (it's his favorite thing ever).  Next time, we will have another guest blogger for you!  Luna, out!
                

c/o Mason
                

Great Falls Animal Hospital

703-759-2330

POISON CONTROL HELPLINE

PET POISON HELPLINE: (800) 213-5774

ASPCA POISON CONTROL: (888) 426-4435

24 EMERGENCY FACILITIES

THE HOPE CENTER- Vienna: (703) 281-5121

THE LIFE CENTRE- Leesburg: (703) 777-9968

VCA SouthPaws Veterinary Specialists & Emergency Center Fairfax: (703) 752-9100

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dr. Garrood talks about Acupuncture

Happy summer, my friends!  Enjoying the warmer weather so far?  I know I am!  Well, at least from the window…  How about any fun summer vacationing yet?  I’ve been saving up for my summer cruise, which reminds me, I need to find out if they accept treats as payment.

Today I welcome a very special guest who just happens to be a good buddy of mine- Dr. Anne Garrood!  She is going to help me by talking about veterinary acupuncture.  For those who haven’t had the pleasure of meeting Dr. Garrood, let me tell you a little bit about her. 

Dr. Anne Garrood

Dr. Garrood, originally from Cambridge, England, has been practicing veterinary medicine for about 26 years and actually started out in human medicine earning her Bachelors degree in nursing while working in Nottingham at a pharmaceutical company.  After a few years, she decided she wanted to see what the good ole’ USA had to offer and soon found herself living in Mississippi and beginning her journey of veterinary medicine.  In 1991, she not only graduated from Mississippi State College of Veterinary Medicine, but also became a United States citizen!  Fast forward to 1999, she joined our fabulous team at GFAH and has since been stuck with us! J  Following her interest in complementary medicine, she took the International Veterinary Acupuncture Society (IVAS) course in 1997 and has been practicing ever since.

For those who may not be familiar with acupuncture, it is essentially inserting needles into particular points of the body to help generate healing and “balance energy”.  I bet you probably didn’t know that it has been used in veterinary medicine in China for at least 3000 years!  Like humans, animals don’t always respond to acupuncture, but it has been proven to be very successful in many cases to help alleviate symptoms and pain from a variety of diseases and ailments.  Some of those include (but are not limited to): arthritis, skin problems, respiratory problems, reproductive issues, and nervous system, kidney and liver problems and gastrointestinal issues.  I think Dr. Garrood would agree that most of her acupuncture patients are receiving treatment due to issues with arthritis but she has had patients with other ailments as well. 

Dr. Garrood was kind enough to answer some questions for me relating to what she does with acupuncture on dogs and cats

Mason: When did you first become interested in doing acupuncture on dogs and cats?

Dr. Garrood: “When I was in vet school, I looked into taking the course but it was too expensive for a poor vet student.”

Mason: Was learning how to do acupuncture on animals difficult?  How long have you been doing it?

Dr. Garrood: “Yes.  It was very hard to switch my mind from Western scientific thinking (“left brain”) to the Chinese model which is more “right brain” driven.   Chinese medicine varies the treatment depending on the signs that a person shows, so 2 people, both with asthma, might receive very different treatments. 

I took the IVAS (International Veterinary Acupuncture Society) course from 1996-1997.”
 

Mason: I know you typically see more dogs than cats for acupuncture; do you think that dogs tend to respond better than cats in general?

Dr. Garrood: “Although cats usually don’t like insertion of the needles very much, they do seem to respond to acupuncture very well.  I have had some cats with very severe illness become completely well again with acupuncture, so I love doing acupuncture on kitties; it is very rewarding!”

Mason: Just like with people, acupuncture on animals is never guaranteed to work, however it looks like you have been fairly successful overall with patients responding to treatment.  Over the years that you have been practicing acupuncture, what percentage would you say were given a better quality of life because of it?

Dr. Garrood: “I generally expect 60-70% of patients to respond well.  Another 10-15% responds some, but maybe not responds well enough to continue with the acupuncture.  Unfortunately, I can’t tell beforehand who will respond and who won’t, so I have to try it to find out.”

Thank you Dr. Garrood for taking the time to sit down with me and answer some questions!  If you think that your dog or cat might benefit from acupuncture, please don’t hesitate to contact us so that we can put you in touch with Dr. Garrood.

For more information on veterinary acupuncture, here are a few resources to try:

International VeterinaryAcupuncture Society

American Academy of VeterinaryAcupuncture  

American Holistic VeterinaryMedical Association  

VeterinaryPartner- Acupuncture:  An AncientPractice

OK, all of this acupuncture talk suddenly has me very relaxed and “zen-ful” so I’m going to go nap it off! 

Til next meow,

Mason

 

 

Puppies!

Hello to all of my Mason followers!  Can you believe it’s May already?  I can’t, but then again time means nothing to me unless it involves waiting to eat- then time is of the essence! 

So today, my friends, I plan to talk about puppies.  Yeah, pretty cute aren’t they?  Well, I guess if you’re into dogs… J  So, let’s talk Puppy 101!

Nemo

The first few steps of puppy ownership actually happen before bringing the cute little furball home.    You need to first make sure that everyone in the house is on board (if applicable), whether it be family members, roommates or landlord.  That is very important anytime you are thinking about bringing a pet into the mix, no matter what it is.  If you are renting, your landlord will definitely need to approve your potential new family member because the last thing you want to do is bring home any pet and then have to re-home or take back to shelter.  It’s certainly not fair to the pet involved either! 

David
 

Once that is out of the way, have another group meeting with the household so that you can establish some kind of system as far as taking care of the puppy.  This can be an especially great learning experience for children and will also help teach them about responsibility and discipline (not to mention it could prove to be very useful experience later in life when they have pets of their own!).  However, parents should plan to have the ultimate responsibility to care for the pet.  That being said, if you do have children, it is highly advisable to do some homework first and look into what breeds would be a better fit.  The ASPCA has some great information on finding the right dog based on your child’s age.  Establishing some ground rules and some type of care system, whether you’re dealing with adults or children before bringing the puppy home will help the transition go much more smoothly (which not only reduces stress to the humans involved but more importantly, the new puppy!).

Structure is extremely important for puppies because it’s when they are learning everything.   Although “you can’t teach an old dog new tricks” is not a true statement, it can be more difficult.  You have to remember that these are not four-legged humans so you have to learn to be patient as well as consistent.  You can’t tell a puppy (or any animal) that it’s not OK to hop on the counter on Wednesday but it’s OK on Fridays.  Consistency is very important when it comes to training commands, too or you could end up confusing the poor puppy and definitely causing a setback in your training.  When you pick up your puppy, find out if he or she already knows some basic commands and if possible, try and stick with those if they seem to be working.  Hey, one less thing to teach them, right? 

Another vital step in puppy ownership is socialization.  This is very important and needs to be done with patience and SMARTS!  Great place to start is at GFAH!  It’s best to make the first appointment within the first week of owning the puppy (unless of course something is going on medically, then come in sooner) and if possible, in between vaccinations so that the first visit can be as positive experience as possible.  This is a great time to ask questions, address any concerns you may have and also our vets can give you a few tips on basic training and care.  GFAH can also give you good recommendations for training and even a list of trainers they recommend based on the puppy’s needs.  Now as far as socialization goes, it’s important that your puppy have all the necessary vaccinations prior to meet and greets with other dogs.  Puppies are especially susceptible to diseases since their immune systems are not mature.  Socialization with other dogs that are current on their vaccinations is the best way to socialize.    Many puppies also have intestinal parasites, while intestinal parasites are treatable, they can cause GI upset (vomiting, diarrhea, gas, etc.) and can even rob your pet of nutrition which if left untreated can lead to trouble.  Bring in a stool sample on your first visit to have tested so that if your pet needs treatment, it can receive it as soon as possible.  We can also give you proper direction on what to do in addition to any deworming medication so that you can avoid anything being passed on to another pet or possibly a person.

Well folks, I think I have “mewsed” enough for the day!  There is so much to learn about puppy ownership and not enough hours in the day!  I have compiled a list of websites that may be of some help should you be looking for a puppy at any point.  I cannot stress enough though how important it is to do some homework first!  Don’t hesitate to ask us for advice if you are unsure since we would much rather you be 100% sure and completely comfortable before you bring a puppy home!

Til next meow,

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mason

 

References:

Choosing the right pet for your child’s age-ASPCA

Dog care-ASPCA

Before the puppy comes home- Veterinary Partner

Two puppies or one? - Veterinary Partner

Great start for puppies- Veterinary Partner

ASPCA KIDS!

Structure, socialization and love get puppies started- Veterinary Partner

Child safety with dogs- Veterinary Partner

 

May Greetings

Happy April, my fellow Masoneers!  Did you look into adopting a rescued guinea pig during Adopt a Rescued Guinea Pig month?  I did, but they did a

thorough background check and found out that I was a cat and therefore ineligible.  When I meowed that I felt I was being discriminated against, they asked if I had a steady income that would allow me to provide food, shelter and medical care and I had to be honest and say no.  They also asked if I rented or owned my residence and how much I pay per month; well, I actually cost my roommate’s money to keep me but they do because they love me.  J  We all came to a mutual agreement that owning a pet was not going to be in the pet’s best interest. 

Speaking of which, did anyone else look up information on guinea pigs after reading about it?  Although it was focused on guinea pigs, the message is VERY important to anyone looking to have any kind of pet: what kind of pet is right, is it even the right time or place to have a pet right now?  That has to be the #1 reason for pets ending up in shelters and/or neglected.  The owner never did or no longer has the time or means to care for them and unfortunately, many don’t care enough to rectify the situation.  Please, please make sure that before you take on the responsibilities of having a pet, that you have the ability to meet that pet’s needs.  If you think that an adoption fee is expensive, that may be a good indication that adopting a pet is probably is not the right thing to do right now.   Food, medical care, pet rent (where applicable) and supplies are all expenses that will be in addition to your current cost of living.  When making this decision, ask yourself how long the pet would be alone during the day, how much space you have to accommodate them, type of environment, and if living with others, is everyone on board?  Let’s help shelters and animals by educating people about pet ownership so that we can reduce the number of homeless pets!



Kindal and Mason



Another very popular reason for pets being surrendered to shelters are allergies.  Dog and cat dander (really pet dander in general) are top reasons that many people do not own animals and why so many pet owners are on lifetime allergy medication.  Having a pet means that you are most likely having to clean more often and, depending on what you have, how much extra cleaning you need to do.  Even if you think your dog or cat doesn’t shed, think again.  Humans shed.  Sorry, the truth hurts.  How much they shed varies so if that’s an issue for you, do your research before you bring a pet home. 

Kindal playing is up for the camera

If you have the financial means, many people find that having hardwood floors (or something other than carpet such as tile, laminate, etc) helps tremendously for people with allergies and can also be much easier to clean.  Speaking of, is it possible to keep a clean house while being a pet owner?  The answer is a most definite yes, though a lot of that depends on the upkeep.  VeterinaryPartner.com has some good ideas; for areas that are harder to keep clean, try and cover with something that can be fairly easily washed like a small rug or furniture throw.  It also helps tremendously when you can clean up before dirt or mess spread throughout the house.  I know those dogs can be awfully messy, mud and dirt everywhere and who knows what else.  OK, I’ll admit it cats sometimes get litter in their paws and walk around the house too but we at least have a “grace” about it.  You can use baby wipes or a warm washcloth to periodically wipe our paws if you feel so inclined.  We may act like we hate it but secretly we enjoy the cleanliness!



BTW Kindal is looking for a home!



So is there a stain on the carpet that we may or may have not contributed to somewhere?  It would probably be advisable to try again and see if maybe another method or product can take it out.  Word around the campfire is that pets have a habit of returning to the scene of previous crimes; other’s or our own, we’re not prejudiced. 

Here’s another newsflash:  a lot of us love to be groomed.  It also keeps some of the fur under control and not all over the rest of the house.  It’s good for bonding too.  Believe it or not, we have our Hallmark moments too!

For more information on keeping it tidy, visit:

http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=1614

http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=208

http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=962

Speaking of cleaning, I’m going to go try and get out of the way of my staff cleaning.  I sometimes feel kind of bad that they have to do it around me. 

Til next meow,



Mason